*** INTERVIEW FOR BOSTON GLOBE NEWSPAPER *** Dear Cheryl, June 13, 1994 I'm John W. Briggs, working here at the Pole this winter for CARA. We didn't speak on the phone the other day, though I helped set up the call with the other guys. I grew up in Westport Point, Massachusetts, where my folks still live and where I built a small backyard observatory. Ten years ago I was on the staff of Sky & Telescope magazine in Cambridge, where I was an assistant editor. I've been with the Univeristy of Chicago's Yerkes Observatory for about three years, as an engineer. My wife, Elizabeth, is an accountant and also works at Yerkes. Here goes with your questions: Nicknames are not so widespread here in the winter as they are in the summer. Of the 27-person winter-over crew, maybe only two have nicknames, and of them, only one, Thumper, uses it full-time. It's a little silly when a whole group adopts nicknames, like, say, in "Top Gun." (The Pole Station is very much demilitarized since its early days, by the way.) Here we're on a first-name basis. When nicknames do crop-up for some of our characters, though, I'd say they're used quite affectionately. This is my third visit to the South Pole. The other two were during short summer seasons, and each was only for a month or so. CARA's principal future research will be during the winter, so our summer efforts will be mainly preparatory. And as interesting as a summer visit is to Pole, you can make only a limited comparision to the extremes of a winter-over. Most visitors aren't able to stay here the 10 months or so that winter-over requires -- I feel lucky being able to do it! Back home, we rent a small cottage on the grounds of Yerkes Observatory that was originally built for graduate student housing. Some of the various South Pole employers make allowances for the disruption you face when you come here to live a year. In my case, Liz is at home with our six animals (not counting the fish!), so I didn't have to worry about closing-up or sub-letting a place, like some other folks do. Still, you can imagine how there's a lot to plan and worry about before going on such a long deployment as this -- taxes, power-of-attorney, etc. We don't have the communication here that everyone else takes for granted. What piece of furniture do I miss most? --Unquestionably, my cat! What incentives for my being here? They are certainly more idealistic, I'm afraid, than the potential finacial savings that you mention. I'm here to participate as best I can in CARA's scientific enterprise, and we all hope to learn something worthwhile in the process. Much of what we're doing at this stage is exploring the Antarctic environment for future high-performance telescopes. Besides these immediate scientific and engineering goals, there're also many personal aesthetic rewards. This place, in its extremes, seems unworldly. If not beautiful, it's at least extraordinarily novel to me -- no matter that many others have visited already. Take the constellations, for example. I learned the northern patterns from the shores of Buzzard's Bay. But here it's like a whole new Universe -- the entire southern celestial hemisphere always overhead, in one go! And even the familiar borderline groups that I could glimpse low to the south at home are here disorientingly upside-down. Dynamic aurorae blaze across the sky, sometimes so bright they light the snow like the full Moon. The apparent motions of the Sun, Moon, and stars are all very odd. And the experience of extreme natural cold is an adventure all in itself. The United States has been camped here for over thirty years now, and the practicalities of Antarctic living are impressively well established. We don't have to fear the cold anymore, the way I imagine early visitors might have. While always respectful of it, we can now afford to simply wonder at the extreme temperatures and at the fact we function as easily as we do. It's true that we undergo a careful medical screening to come here, even for just a summertime visit. That doesn't mean you have to be a super athlete. It's more that they simply must check for folks too likely to blow a gasket or to suffer some other surprise ailment that would prove awkward in our remote setting. They take a very careful look at your teeth, for example. One fellow hoping to come this year was surprised to have cancer. He couldn't come, of course, but at least he began treatment earlier than he might have otherwise known to. The psychological "testing" is required only for winter-over staff, and it seemed much more low-key than I imagined it might be. It was just paperwork with some reasonable questions, and a brief follow-up interview with a friendly Navy psychiatrist. A recent winter-over physician at Pole Station happened to be a psychiatrist, and I recall an interesting opinion he expressed in his end-of-season exit report. He stated that the winter-over experience does not cause mental illness. Rather -- if you happen to have problems here, you likely arrived with them. There are stresses here, but I don't think we find them accute. Some winter-over crews function more harmoniously than others, as you would expect. I think we have a very good group this year. A while back, a New York Times article reported extreme winter stress, but I now view that story as unfortunately sensationalized, based on experience to date. It's true, though, that this year's crew has long months yet to endure -- we'll see how it goes! I, sad or depressed? I would not say "sad." And "depressed" is an especially tough word to 'fess-up. However, many of us (but not all) freely console each other in our mutual cycles of motivation. My friends have days when *nothing* seems fun. And so do I! Together we recognize these occasional slumps as normal, and it becomes something we can laugh about. The way to imagine our situation is to recognize how confined we are with our work. Think of not being able to leave your office building, for A YEAR. Except to step outside where the ambient is often as low as -70 F., sometimes below -100, with occasional windchills to -180. No overtime pay. You can't hop in your car. Nowhere to go, except maybe just to another small building across the snow. No cats allowed. Sure, we have plenty of videos, "Ren & Stimpy" tapes, Stooges, -- everything like that. And other recreational facilities. But no matter how much you might enjoy your work, and the wonderous grandeur of the environment, it's not unusual to wage little mental battles once in a while. And that's OK -- it's just another interesting facet of being here. Friendships here remind me very much of what you can find in residential college or boarding school. Yes, they can be wonderfully strong. We're living and working in close quarters, and we enjoy some great laughs. It seems unusual and neat being able to re-experience this atmosphere with fellow adults, after you've put school days behind you. There may be analogies to the friendships of military life, too, but I speculate, since I'm not a veteran. In my case, I've enjoyed astronomy since childhood, and I consider myself fortunate to have worked in the field as much as I have, since it's a tough racket to get into. My father was editor of the Taunton Daily Gazette back when it was still a family-owned paper. In those days, the National Geographic Society sent out a monthly sky calendar, which was a press release highlighting eclipses, meteor showers, and the like. I don't know if the Gazette ever ran that as news, but my Dad sure brought it home to me, and I made use of it. I might have equally enjoyed getting into some other field, interested as I was in bugs, shells, rocks and anything burnable or naturally explosive -- but I certainly have no regrets now, working in astronomy. What do I personally "get" out of a field like this? Well, my motivation, grounded as it is in the pleasure of actually *seeing* things like the old eclipses and meteor showers from our yard in Westport, remains, I suppose, a simple aesthetic one. It turns out if you learn enough about this stuff you can actually go to work and contribute a bit to our general understanding of things. You meet people along the way who share your eccentric enthusiasm for whatever you might have specialized in -- let's say, comets. And among your comet colleagues, you'll likely discover good comradeship and the opportunity for very satisfying collaboration. On the other hand, you might also find burning competition. I lament those students of science who are confronted by ugly competition before they enjoy good collaboration. Living and working in the dark? Like so much else here, you get used to it. Our observatory building is 1/2 mile away from the main Dome, where we eat and sleep. Those of us working out in the "dark sector," which is new this year, walk more often than not. When the temperature is below -90, it's bad to run the vehicles, so we *have* to walk. The experience is not always peaceful, given how the wind can blow, but it's often beautiful. Solemn, you ask? Well, maybe a little bit, during the walk. You're usually alone on the ice, and sometimes you can't see well. Never in fear of getting lost, though. There's a safely rope, up on waist-level stakes, the whole way, with flags, too. So far this season, we've never come close to actually needing it. So you get to one end of this dog-run, say to the Dome and its associated under-snow complex. The main structure is 160 feet in diameter and now somewhat buried in blowing snow. You forge in through the front door, stride a connecting tunnel, and you then enter the vast unheated cavern of the Dome. Usually you cruise straight into the galley building, the social center of our little community. Someone is hanging out there almost 24 hours a day. The coffee's always hot, there're plenty of leftovers, and the illumination is by what we call "happy lights," full-spectrum fluorescents that are supposed to fight "seasonal stress disorder." Good music, playing on the stereo, is not uncommon. On the other end, at the observatory, it's more like walking up a stairway to a minature oil rig than into the Dome's giant ant farm. Our building is on stilts to allow blowing snow to pass underneath without drifting up so much. Telescopes and other instruments are mounted on the roof. Indoors you notice more computers than anything else, though we also have a modest metal shop, lots of electronic test equipment, and piles of tools and other specialized stuff for maintaining the telescopes and related instruments. We have a stereo, too -- known to blare James Brown. Judge *that* solemn, man, if you dare to! What *things* do I miss the most? I miss having a cat, as I mentioned. You miss green things a lot, too, like grass. I also very much miss convenient telephone communications. But I suppose one should not dwell on such things. I actually don't worry much about it, and I try to stay focussed on duties. It's hard to make things work here, and there're always chores pressing. Fun here is joking with friends hanging out in the galley. We really have a lot of laughs! Movies and books are here, too, but they're not so much fun as just distractions from one's confinement. I miss most my wife Liz, of course, who I've known since high school. But I'm grateful that we're both on electronic mail via satellite and Internet, which allows for us much better communication than what's been suffered in the past here. I don't think living at the Pole will change me much, though I hope to feel a little more enlightened of the world, and perhaps of myself, for having been here. One tends to become more introspective, I believe, being stuck here a year. At home, you can plod along comfortably in a given situation, while years go by. Coming here is certainly a shock to your system! I expect the experience will delimit one phase of life from the next -- as would any major move or job-change. Airdrop, our one physical contact with the outside world during our 10-month isolation here, is a giant Lockheed Starlifter, screaming low overhead, producing parachute-borne crates. And then off it goes back into the moonlight. Airdrop will be wonderful, but lots of things can go wrong, and I haven't requested, nor am I counting, on *anything.* Rumor has it that post-airdrop blues are a common moral problem. The event defines the Beginning of the Rest of your Winter. It's hard to miss any sort of food, since we have such a seemingly preposterous surplus of it. It's said that, should civilization end, and we were consequently REALLY stuck here, we would have a seven-year supply. Long before that we would run out of heating fuel and freeze, unless perhaps we instituted some very radical fuel conservation. Our living quarters remind me of a school dormitory, although the standard private 5 1/2-by-10-foot rooms are extremely small -- like monk cells. I have a crude desk and a spare computer set up in mine, which means I have virtually no floor space. But I don't care. I'm just grateful to have my own private flop. Fire is perhaps our greatest safety concern here. Part of our winter-over preparation is a week-long no-fooling fire brigade school at the Rocky Mountian Fire Academy. And we've had several real fire alarms so far this season. Each of our rooms is equipped with a small emergency escape door, exiting through the wall and into the cold Dome, to insure an extra margin of safety. Given the weight limitations imposed upon us, I took very little personal stuff from home. But having been here a couple times before, I had some insight regarding what personal clothing to carry. They issue great gear on your way in, through New Zealand. But on the other hand, it's nice to have a little variety, for lounging. It's like this -- you wouldn't want to spent a year in a boy scout uniform. The extreme cold weather clothing and accessories become like a uniform after a while. The projects that are my responisibly are just a small bit of the total research enterprise of the season. And further, each of my experiments is a front-line effort of rather involved collaborations back home. One contraption that I'm running is essentially a light meter, sensitive to infrared radiation. It scans the infrared glow from the Earth's atmosphere. Astronomers have anticipated that, if looking in certain interesting infrared colors, the view through Antarctic air will be spectacularly clear and crisp. So far, the data from my instrument, which was provided by Australian astronomers, and the data from another similar CARA experiment, seem quite encouraging. It's said that winter-over staff often become homebodies, at least for a while, when they get off the ice -- much more content to spend time peacefully around the house and yard than to, say, go cruising a downtown scene, in a crowd. A number of people choose to decompress in beautiful, peaceful New Zealand. I expect to head home pretty fast, and it won't surprise me if I fit the homebody pattern. My hobbies have been very close to my work for a long time. Here I find myself awfully consumed just keeping present experiments running as well as worrying about a number of important ones that are hardly begun yet. Actually, answering your questions is something of a hobby for me. I do a lot of public speaking back home, to astronomy clubs and school groups. I also collect and restore old telescopes. I have a real whopper waiting for me -- a "Rolls Royce" of a telescope! It must weigh several tons, and I can't wait to get started on it. I've read studies saying that people with intense hobby interests have historically done less well during Antarctic winter-over. I don't see obvious evidence for that claim this year, but yet it could be very true. What voice do I miss most? Well, all I can say is that hearing *any* familiar voice from family or friends is especially intense and delightful. The importance of regular, unfettered voice communication with family is critically important for moral here. Our present restriction to 10 or 20 minutes' personal phone use per week is too little -- no matter if it's already much better (they tell us) than what had the heros of yesteryear! To hell with the heros, I say -- I want to Talk with my Wife! The people here with children or medical problems at home face a particularly tough situation. A couple seasons ago, a friend wintering here lost his father. I lost my grandmother shortly after I arrived. Events like these aren't unusual. What is my reputation here? That's of course better known to the others, with their perspective, than to me, with my entirely normal but distorted mental mirror. I'm content with how we all get along. The social dynamics of our crew are being studied by anthropologists using monthly surveys. Our season is the last of this three-year study, which has been motivated in part by a potential analogy between winter-over and a long-duration space flight -- say, to Mars. We affectionately call each monthly questionnaire "the monkey-man test." Some of the monkey men sweated-through fire school with us, I suppose to get a better handle on us. I gather their eventual paper, without naming names, will address the issue of reputation. My character? Well, I think I'm *not* really a "nerd," even given my many nerd interests. I guess I'm "extroverted," but not, I trust, a loudmouth. My hulking mass is smarter, I hope, than it may look. I *am* enthusiastic about my work, without, I hope, too often being breathless. We've got enough musicians here at Pole this year that they've formed a rock band. Our plumber is an excellent drummer, for example. So we have dance parties once in a while. We clear the tables out of the galley and go at it, making lots of noise. I get right into it, with everyone else, shaking it the way I was too inhibited to do in high school. This is South Pole. Who gives a damn? I don't have any problem with this interview. It's a privilege. The realities here are interesting and sometimes amusing. If we can share that, we've scored. While the experience of Antarctica can be easily overdramatized, it's certainly a wonderfully neat place. The United States is leading much of the ongoing scientific exploration here -- in many diverse fields -- and Americans can take pride in that. About nine years ago, I met a man who had wintered here around 1970, and I realized that there were opportunities to come here. My wife at that time and I considered very seriously how we might do it together. But she went on to her dream at NASA, and I to mine at Yerkes Observatory. It's just an odd twist of fate that with Yerkes came a chance to work on the ice. The simple cold is probably the most amazing thing. Step outside berthing, into the Dome, with wet hair? My God, does your hair freeze fast! Being actually at "The Pole" is of course equally amazing. We can stroll out to the marker, whenever we feel. But you forget the wonder of Pole after a while. You can't forget the cold. During the winter season, a number of people work in small teams, say, like the construction crew, and consequently they maintain some semblance of a schedule, to stay together. Not so for folks like me, running experiments. We can generally keep hours as we please, and there are advantages and disavantages to this. For example, today I woke up at about 10:PM (we use New Zealand time here). And now it's 3:AM, and I'm going strong. I have the computer room in the Dome all to myself, and I can concentrate. (And I'm wearing my own goose down booties, by the way, not sandels -- per one of your questions!) Similarly, if I were working out in our small lab-shop, I wouldn't be bumping into my buddies around the bench. You can get a little more done this way. You work pretty much until you've just had it, and then you'll go lounge around with friends and maybe catch a movie, before you finally crash. For some people, all this naturally runs a little longer than 24 hours. So your schedule cycles around. Other folks are quite disciplined in staying with a 24-hour day. This faciliates interaction with a majority of the Station, which is healthy, and it allows catching the two regular meals as they're served. I don't know which routine is really best -- I just try to get a sound rest when I need it, and I stay as productive as possible. I see enough friends to have a few laughs no matter what my hours are, and consequently I stay sane. More often than not, your own word -- Jovial -- describes the scene as I see it. It's more a family atmosphere than most work situations. But the mood of the Station can certainly change. We've a long way to go, yet -- I mentioned already the historical problem of post-airdrop blues. Some folks are a little more business-like than others, but nobody's a hardass. Many people, however, are intensely devoted to their duties, which is a good strategy for getting through the winter. Regarding the cold: I remember well an airborne return to McMurdo, on the coast of the continent, at the end of a summer visit to Pole. The sunny temperatures of Pole Station had dropped to -40 by the time we left on the 3-hour flight to the ocean. And when we stepped out onto the snow runway of the Ross Ice Shelf, many passengers exclaimed how wonderfully warm it was. "Feels like 60 degrees!" some guy shouted -- and I agreed. Turned out, it was about 20. I gather that one just grows accoustomed to the bite of the cold outdoors at a place like Pole, and when you finally escape it, it's a slight disorientation to your senses. Kind of like that unsteady feeling in your legs when you step off a gangplank after some days at sea. Right now, as I write, the temperature is about -44 F., with a light wind. This seems so mild compared to the most uncomfortable we know that my colleague, John Kovac, very sincerely said 'how nice the weather was' as he strode out just now to work on his exposed radio telescope, 1/2 mile away, across the drifts. The worst *I* know occurs sometimes during my climb up a 70-foot scaffold-like meteorology tower, where we've mounted fragile temperature sensors. The experiment provides data on how low-level air turbulence will limit the resolving power of telescopes, and it's a shared effort between CARA, French, and Australian astronomers. In the spirit of international collaboration, this is not something we want to goof-up. Experience revealed, to our dismay, that the sensors are destroyed by accumulating ice, if there're not covered and heated between data-taking sessions. Thus, I have to climb that tower whenever I want to score data. At first, I had no idea if this were practical. But it turns out to be entirely so, somewhat to my amazement, even in windchills as low as -160 F. It's a pain, sure -- but, with the clothing we've got, and good common sense, it's no sweat. While this is just a little experiment in the grand scheme of things, I'm really happy to be getting the data. I believe that one's sensory scale shifts here, with acclimation, to a stage where any outdoor cold, short of the onset of frostbite, is merely an uncomfortable nuisance. I wear a full face mask that does a great job protecting my head. It's gross, though -- it's like a dip-wick in a drool bucket. No matter, because your face is protected. But when your gloves have frozen-through, and your fingertips are next, or maybe have already begun (because you were stupid and pushed it too far) -- THAT burning feeling is our winter-over definition of "cold." ########## Note: *...* indicates where I would use *italics.* Sorry, Cheryl, for the delay getting back to you! Because of a silly error on our end here at Pole, I did not hear about your list until some time after it arrived. Please get back to me if you have further questions. Cheers, --John.