The day got off to a moderately bad start when a 7:30 check-in was postponed first to an 11:30 check-in and finally a 3:30 check-in. Fortunately we still had the rental car. We spent some time at an Internet cafe's and then hit the road again, this time to Lyttleton, Christchurch's port. After taking in the sights we drove to the Gondola, which offers spectacular panoramic views of the whole Christchurch region. However no sooner did we alight at the top of the cable-car trip when Luigi rang once again, this time to dangle the carrot of an 'imminent departure' in front of us. We returned to the Antarctic Centre immediately, but it would be 6 pm before we were actually underway.

Hanging around in an airport departure lounge for several hours is one of life's less rewarding activities, and today was no exception. Unfortunately it proved impossible to escape the widescreen television, which played a succession of trashy US and home-grown programs each more dismal than the last. Worst of all was a 'psychic' cold-reader who was not only hopeless but was making a living preying on the grief of recently bereaved folk. How such obvious twits can get to sleep at night, and why it is considered TV entertainment, completely escapes me. Only our recent experience of Twizel, with its triumphant affirmation of the uplifting power of the human spirit, stopped me from plunging into deep despair.

Our luggage was bundled up with that of the other Dome C hopefuls, and placed last on the plane so it would be first off. With any luck, we'd make a quick transfer at Terra Nova Bay to a waiting Twin Otter, and be back on our way within a couple of hours. Last year, Anna and I made it from Christchurch to Dome C in just 14 hours.

Eventually we lumbered aboard the Hercules, weighed down with books, Extreme Cold Weather clothing, and the lingering effects of the afternoon's TV shows. The flight was uneventful. I tried to sleep, Suze took photos of everything, and Jon climbed on top of the cargo to make a comfortable nest for himself for the night.

Arriving at Terra Nova Bay at 2 am our hopes of a quick departure to Dome C were again promptly dashed. Winds at Dome C were amongst the highest ever recorded, and a night on the coast was our only option. Nevertheless, it was great to be back in Antarctica. The sun shone brightly as we piled into a beat-up Fiat four-wheel-drive for the short trip across the ice to the station. Spending a night at Terra Nova Bay is not a bad prospect.
- John